"Just Hair"

"Just Hair"

👤 Salma Nour · 23/11/2022 · Quick read

The traces of racism are still visible in fashion media today; Models are falling victem to colorism at work!

For the longest time Designers within the Fashion Industry have been styling, dressing and choosing their models however they preferred. This changed within recent years with the influences of the BLM movement and new sense of awareness regarding social situations. More people are active online and they use their platforms to speak up and voice their opinions. This new norm of micro-activism has put many brands in predicaments and at risk of cancellation. And it has also pressured brands to put more effort into working more responsibly; e.g. hiring more diverse models, equal pay and better treatment of staff. To fully understand the extend of this progress i will be looking into the case study of African American female models; the way they are represented in media, treated in the industry and perceived by designers.

During the peak of the BLM movement in 2020 companies were held accountable for staying silent or posting with a lack of understanding; this then resulted in them loosing customers and being confronted in the comment sections of their pages. As of late, many companies have recognized the profitability of having an inclusive brand identity, which leads us to the concept of being a "diversity hire". This concept is a reference to when a company chooses to recruit a new personal solely based on their minority background. This behavior might seem as an effort towards becoming inclusive, but more than often it is an effort towards the aesthetic of being inclusive.

According to casting directors and models within the industry, it is assumed that black models do not perform well in promoting products and models who have eurocentric features get hired more. Additionally, an ongoing trend in styling black models has been masculine leaning hair styles and minimal to no makeup. This trend is not like the others that are based on taste alone; on the contrary this trend has to do with factores such as hairdressers not knowing how to work on kinky, curly or coily hair textures. As a designer it is no longer enough to only hire black models. Additionally they should hire staff that are capable of doing makeup on multiple skin shades, as well as hair dressers who knows how to do curly or coily hair.

And just as you have been doing keep being a micro-activist by following and supporting the models YOU would want to be on the runway!

Vogue models speak up about Racism in the model industry

← CLICK HERE

Models you should follow!

Halima Aden

Slick Woods

Agi

Akur

Bibliography

Kessler, J., & Low, C. (11. 2 2021). Research: How Companies Committed to Diverse Hiring Still Fail. Hentet fra hbr.org: https://hbr.org/2021/02/research-how-companies-committed-to-diverse-hiring-still-fail

Frisby, C. M. (2019). Black and Beautiful: A Content Analysis and Study of Colorism and Strides toward Inclusivity in the Cosmetic Industry. Advances in Journalism and Communication, 7, 35-54. https://doi.org/10.4236/ajc.2019.72003

Butkowski, C., Humphreys, L., & Mall, U. (2022). Computing colorism: skin tone in online retail imagery. Visual Communication, 0(0). https://doi.org/10.1177/14703572221077444

Shaw, D. O., & Kidwai , S. A. (21. 8 2020). The Geopolitics. Hentet fra thegeopolitics.com: https://thegeopolitics.com/the-global-impact-of-the-black-lives-matter-movement/

Newman, Scarlett L., "Black Models Matter: Challenging the Racism of Aesthetics and the Facade of Inclusion in the Fashion Industry" (2017). CUNY Academic Works.

https://academicworks.cuny.edu/gc_etds/2143

Cruel, J. (26. 9 2018). The Rise In Black Models Is Exposing Another Diversity Issue Backstage. Hentet fra refinery29.com: https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/black-models-natural-hair-fashion-week

Team

Salma Nour

Heidi Hussein

Amal Ahmed

AboUT the website

The Aim of our blog is to spark conversation about the influences of representation in fashion media, and awareness on the current stigma regarding the phrase "Just Hair" - Team

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